Deeeeeep breath.
Well, here I am in Kingston, Ontario, finally with a free moment to jot down some notes from my cross-country travels so far. I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into when I left Portland, but I can say that this trip has already been amazing, and I’m only about one quarter in! I’ve been desperate to write for days now, but the constant driving, job shadowing, and chatting (with couchsurfer hosts and friends alike) has left me little time to collect my thoughts. I opted for a hotel room tonight simply to take a pause and reflect a little on what’s happened so far.
Portland, OR --> Kelowna, BC --> Edmonton, AB --> Manitou Beach, SK --> Winnipeg, MB --> Thunder Bay, ON --> Sault Ste Marie, ON --> Toronto, ON --> Kingston, ON!
First of all, this country is enormous! Days of driving and I haven’t even made my way across Canada yet. Also, it turns out a 10-hour drive followed by a day of job shadowing followed by another 10-hour drive followed by more job shadowing gets really tiring! I have been staying with friends where possible, and have been doing the couchsurfer thing when a familiar face is unavailable. I have met some amazing doctors, with all kinds of practices from the oldschool nature cure types to the more “cutting edge” shiny new practices where injections and IV therapy are all the rage. I have been shown all kinds of kindness and warm hospitality by the familiar and unfamiliar alike People have been both exceedingly generous and exceedingly supportive in my adventure. There is one experience in particular that I have wanted to write about for days now, and that is my time in magical Manitou Beach, Saskatchewan.
Magical Manitou Beach
Before I left Kelowna, I was treated to a visit by my aunt and uncle from Revelstoke, BC. My uncle asked me how I was planning to navigate my way across North America, to which I replied “google maps?” which was, I suppose, an unsatisfactory response. He offered to loan me his GPS, which I gratefully accepted. This GPS has been my guiding light while traversing the continent. She has been my best friend, telling me when I need to make a U-turn, assuring me when I am on track, and helping me to arrive safely and calmly to my destinations. She allows me to get off track when I need to meander for a while, and she redirects me when I’m ready to get back on track. I’m developing a great affection for this little machine and I would be (literally) lost without her. Thanks, Uncle Albert!
First, Edmonton. I’d had a wonderful time in Edmonton, as my couchsurfing hostess, Sara, had made me feel like one of the family. On my second night, she had all her relatives from Ontario over for dinner, and they plied me with a steak dinner and red wine and her mom drunkenly sang inappropriate songs to her teenage cousins. When they left, I had heaps of hugs and good wishes, and so the following day, when I left for Saskatchewan, I felt like I had the wings of love beneath me. Driving through the yellow canola fields of the prairies is simply beautiful and it kept my spirits bright. I stopped for lunch in Saskatoon (just long enough to be attacked by mosquitos and wasps, and for an electrical storm to commence) and then headed south toward Manitou Beach. Sunny skies before me, electrical storm brewing in my rearview mirror. Different weather in each direction; those enormous skies make me feel like maybe I could be a prairie girl after all.
Ok, here’s where the story gets good.
The thing about Saskatchewan that I never knew before is that highways there are often, in fact, dirt roads that go straight and flat for what looks like forever. Somewhere between Saskatoon and Regina, I was guided off of the paved highway to branch onto one of these so-called “highways.” Previously one of few cars on the paved highway, I was now the only car on the dirt road highway. I discovered that this particular highway was brimming with amazing photo opportunities, so I stopped every few hundred meters or so to take a photo or some bird or tree, and I was absolutely delighted to be in the middle of who-knows-where, surrounded by what I felt was a hidden gem in the heart of Canada. After turning from dirt road “highway” to dirt road “highway,” (and having really no idea if my GPS was trustworthy at this point) I suddenly came upon one of the neatest come-upon-ings to date: thousands of dragonflies suddenly zooming and darting all around my car. There were so many dragonflies that I had to roll up my windows for fear that they would overwhelm me. It was pure magic. I sat in my car, expressing my amazement to myself, in awe of this secret dragonfly gathering and then carefully carried on my way. My GPS, at this point, was showing that the road ahead led directly through a large body of water, which looked strange to me on her digital screen: a line of purple through a body of blue. However, she had been fairly trustworthy so far, so I continued as directed. The flatness of the road made what lay ahead impossible to see. I rounded a slight curve, and lo and behold! My road through the body of water was, in fact, a road partially submerged in the body of water. Huge signs declaring "ROAD CLOSED" filled me with panic and caused me to carefully U-turn myself around and inch away in fear. I had an overwhelming sense that I had had a near brush with death! My GPS hounded at me "Do a U-turn! Do a U-TURN!!!" and I was appalled that this machine I so dearly trusted was encouraging me to drive straight into the lake! I impulsively turned down some random road that headed I knew not where. Any road would be better than one that led to the bottom of a lake!
Fortunately, the road I chose (combined with my GPS’s recalculation) led me around the lake and into Manitou Beach. My experience so far in arriving at this place had been nothing short of bizarre, so I felt even stranger as the road that led me into town was exactly on level with the surface of the lake. I had already seen one road go under. What would happen if my sojourn at Manitou Beach saw a few inches of rain? Would I be able to get out? Would it be like the town in Tim Burton's "Big Fish" from which one can never leave?
I eventually found my destination, which I had previously known very little about except that a naturopathic doctor from my school had purchased a property that she was planning to turn into some sort of clinic, and I was going to see exactly what she was up to. I drove into driveway that had “Harmony House” painted on a sign, and headed for the door marked “Office.” When I walked in, it was like stepping back in time. It was a great room filled with beautiful antique furniture including about ten wooden tables complete with place settings as though dozens of guests would show up at any moment. The room was decked out in Victorian décor from floor to ceiling. Floral prints, lace, rich dark wood, and ornaments dating back to the last century adorned the room. I stood at the door, taking it in when a head popped into view through a window into the adjacent old-fashioned kitchen, and a kind looking woman said, “You must be Erica!”
She introduced herself as Lydia, and explained that the building had previously been a YMCA girls’ camp, and then a B&B. She had owned the property before Dr. Czeranko purchased it, and she now lived there despite no longer being the owner. I felt like I had wandered into one of the most amazing places I’d ever been. She told me that Dr. Czeranko had gone down to the lake for a swim, but to make myself comfortable, which I did. I sat there on the antique sofa dressed with beautiful quilts and felt like I had wandered into a place out of time. There was a bookshelf loaded with books on spirituality, meditation, healing, and the like, and this confirmed my sense that this place was good for the soul.
When Dr. Czeranko arrived, she greeted me warmly, showed me to my room (amazing, perfectly decorated Victorian-styled room, with its own ensuite bathroom), and then we talked. She explained to me that she had purchased this property because she had been smitten with the town after visiting and experiencing its amazing healing waters. Her plan is to eventually turn the old B&B into a healing retreat center where doctors and patients alike can come to learn about and experience the power of balneotherapy. The mineral-rich sea water and magical energy of the tiny town make Manitou Beach a perfect place to set up a healing retreat.
After learning all of this, my tiredness must have shown, for Dr. Czeranko directed me to the town’s salt lake to take a refreshing swim, and informed me that that evening we would be going to “Danceland.” Danceland, I was told, was all the rage. Everyone in town would be there, and I had no choice but to go. (As if I would turn down such an opportunity!) First, though, a swim to revive me.
Although now a small and quiet place with the tranquility of a ghost town, Manitou Beach was once a vibrant and bustling place. Earlier in the twentieth century, the train used to pass through town and bring visitors by the thousands who would fill Danceland to the gills, dancing and partying all night long before heading back to their respective homes in other towns. Guests would stay in the hotel at night, soak in the therapeutic waters by day, and dance and drink into the wee hours of the morning. Since the railroad has dwindled, the town has shrunk down to a mere 200 people, now left with the feeling of a town forgotten, or fallen out of time.
I took myself the few steps down to the beach and plunged into the water. I had never been swimming in a salt lake before, and I was delighted at how buoyant I was! I effortlessly bobbed along the surface of the refreshing lake and felt the life force filling me once again after the day’s journey. Once refreshed, I walked back to the house, was treated to a delicious meal (and wine) on the deck with a view of the lake, and then I dressed to go dancing at Danceland.
Once one of the hottest spots in the province, Danceland, it turns out, is this perfect little dance hall that still hosts dances and live music a few nights per week. Tuesday night is the Toonie dance from 8-9pm. The ladies and I walked along the water’s edge to Danceland and when we walked in, I discovered a large wooden dance floor (apparently built upon a bed of horse hair – for extra bounce) surrounded by chairs and tables. The floor was packed with dancers (where did all these people come from?), and on a stage at one end of the hall were two elderly ladies playing old-time hits on a keyboard and accordion. Disappointingly, none of the older gentlemen asked me to dance, but the ladies and I met some gals from Alberta, who were both very sweet, and Dr. Czeranko invited them to go swimming with us the following morning at 8am, for “hardening.”
Hardening is a nature cure practice in which you begin the day by taking a plunge into cold water with the aim of toughening the body’s defenses. The cold water forces the circulatory system to move, which boosts the immune system. Dr. Czeranko had already told me she would be waking me up early the next day to go “harden” in the lake. I was looking forward to it!
The next day and following evening were filled with swimming, soaking in the sun, eating wholesome and delicious meals (prepared by amazing chef Lydia,) and hours of wonderful and inspiring conversation with Dr. Czeranko and Lydia about all things naturopathic. Spending a few days with these ladies in this place was an amazing opportunity that I feel so blessed to have had. Lydia practices biofeedback (a diagnostic and treatment modality), and I was able to observe a biofeedback treatment session and then ask her lots of questions about it afterward. Dr. Czeranko shared her wisdom with me (hours on such topics as the future of the medicine and starting a practice) and provided me with a list of doctors to contact in the eastern part of Canada, all of whom she knows well. My time in Manitou didn’t give me any job shadowing opportunity per se. It gave me a whole lot more.
The day I left, I began my day with a swim in the salt lake (of course), an hour of raspberry picking, healthy breakfast, and a final Manitou chat with Dr. Czeranko, and when I left for Winnipeg, I felt like the wings of love that had carried me so far had now doubled in strength. As I drove away from that little gem of a town, I felt that I had just experienced a dose of the magic that exists in this world, and I was filled with a sense that no matter what, I was on my way to becoming the best doctor I could hope to be if for no other reason than I had some amazing people backing me.
Several towns, experiences, and a week later, I am now in Kingston, Ontario, which is the first place I have been to that strikes me as a town I could potentially call home. I have only been in this town for a few hours, but already I am in love with the town’s old-world charm, and I feel a sense of urgency that I have to move here before all the other doctors discover it and take over! More to say on this and so many other topics, but it’s time for bed, as I am heading out of town tomorrow morning to preceptor with yet another potentially amazing doctor. I can’t wait to see what’s in store for me around the next corner, and I will do my best to share the next segment of this adventure. Goodnight!
Well, here I am in Kingston, Ontario, finally with a free moment to jot down some notes from my cross-country travels so far. I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into when I left Portland, but I can say that this trip has already been amazing, and I’m only about one quarter in! I’ve been desperate to write for days now, but the constant driving, job shadowing, and chatting (with couchsurfer hosts and friends alike) has left me little time to collect my thoughts. I opted for a hotel room tonight simply to take a pause and reflect a little on what’s happened so far.
Portland, OR --> Kelowna, BC --> Edmonton, AB --> Manitou Beach, SK --> Winnipeg, MB --> Thunder Bay, ON --> Sault Ste Marie, ON --> Toronto, ON --> Kingston, ON!
First of all, this country is enormous! Days of driving and I haven’t even made my way across Canada yet. Also, it turns out a 10-hour drive followed by a day of job shadowing followed by another 10-hour drive followed by more job shadowing gets really tiring! I have been staying with friends where possible, and have been doing the couchsurfer thing when a familiar face is unavailable. I have met some amazing doctors, with all kinds of practices from the oldschool nature cure types to the more “cutting edge” shiny new practices where injections and IV therapy are all the rage. I have been shown all kinds of kindness and warm hospitality by the familiar and unfamiliar alike People have been both exceedingly generous and exceedingly supportive in my adventure. There is one experience in particular that I have wanted to write about for days now, and that is my time in magical Manitou Beach, Saskatchewan.
Magical Manitou Beach
Before I left Kelowna, I was treated to a visit by my aunt and uncle from Revelstoke, BC. My uncle asked me how I was planning to navigate my way across North America, to which I replied “google maps?” which was, I suppose, an unsatisfactory response. He offered to loan me his GPS, which I gratefully accepted. This GPS has been my guiding light while traversing the continent. She has been my best friend, telling me when I need to make a U-turn, assuring me when I am on track, and helping me to arrive safely and calmly to my destinations. She allows me to get off track when I need to meander for a while, and she redirects me when I’m ready to get back on track. I’m developing a great affection for this little machine and I would be (literally) lost without her. Thanks, Uncle Albert!
First, Edmonton. I’d had a wonderful time in Edmonton, as my couchsurfing hostess, Sara, had made me feel like one of the family. On my second night, she had all her relatives from Ontario over for dinner, and they plied me with a steak dinner and red wine and her mom drunkenly sang inappropriate songs to her teenage cousins. When they left, I had heaps of hugs and good wishes, and so the following day, when I left for Saskatchewan, I felt like I had the wings of love beneath me. Driving through the yellow canola fields of the prairies is simply beautiful and it kept my spirits bright. I stopped for lunch in Saskatoon (just long enough to be attacked by mosquitos and wasps, and for an electrical storm to commence) and then headed south toward Manitou Beach. Sunny skies before me, electrical storm brewing in my rearview mirror. Different weather in each direction; those enormous skies make me feel like maybe I could be a prairie girl after all.
Ok, here’s where the story gets good.
The thing about Saskatchewan that I never knew before is that highways there are often, in fact, dirt roads that go straight and flat for what looks like forever. Somewhere between Saskatoon and Regina, I was guided off of the paved highway to branch onto one of these so-called “highways.” Previously one of few cars on the paved highway, I was now the only car on the dirt road highway. I discovered that this particular highway was brimming with amazing photo opportunities, so I stopped every few hundred meters or so to take a photo or some bird or tree, and I was absolutely delighted to be in the middle of who-knows-where, surrounded by what I felt was a hidden gem in the heart of Canada. After turning from dirt road “highway” to dirt road “highway,” (and having really no idea if my GPS was trustworthy at this point) I suddenly came upon one of the neatest come-upon-ings to date: thousands of dragonflies suddenly zooming and darting all around my car. There were so many dragonflies that I had to roll up my windows for fear that they would overwhelm me. It was pure magic. I sat in my car, expressing my amazement to myself, in awe of this secret dragonfly gathering and then carefully carried on my way. My GPS, at this point, was showing that the road ahead led directly through a large body of water, which looked strange to me on her digital screen: a line of purple through a body of blue. However, she had been fairly trustworthy so far, so I continued as directed. The flatness of the road made what lay ahead impossible to see. I rounded a slight curve, and lo and behold! My road through the body of water was, in fact, a road partially submerged in the body of water. Huge signs declaring "ROAD CLOSED" filled me with panic and caused me to carefully U-turn myself around and inch away in fear. I had an overwhelming sense that I had had a near brush with death! My GPS hounded at me "Do a U-turn! Do a U-TURN!!!" and I was appalled that this machine I so dearly trusted was encouraging me to drive straight into the lake! I impulsively turned down some random road that headed I knew not where. Any road would be better than one that led to the bottom of a lake!
Fortunately, the road I chose (combined with my GPS’s recalculation) led me around the lake and into Manitou Beach. My experience so far in arriving at this place had been nothing short of bizarre, so I felt even stranger as the road that led me into town was exactly on level with the surface of the lake. I had already seen one road go under. What would happen if my sojourn at Manitou Beach saw a few inches of rain? Would I be able to get out? Would it be like the town in Tim Burton's "Big Fish" from which one can never leave?
I eventually found my destination, which I had previously known very little about except that a naturopathic doctor from my school had purchased a property that she was planning to turn into some sort of clinic, and I was going to see exactly what she was up to. I drove into driveway that had “Harmony House” painted on a sign, and headed for the door marked “Office.” When I walked in, it was like stepping back in time. It was a great room filled with beautiful antique furniture including about ten wooden tables complete with place settings as though dozens of guests would show up at any moment. The room was decked out in Victorian décor from floor to ceiling. Floral prints, lace, rich dark wood, and ornaments dating back to the last century adorned the room. I stood at the door, taking it in when a head popped into view through a window into the adjacent old-fashioned kitchen, and a kind looking woman said, “You must be Erica!”
She introduced herself as Lydia, and explained that the building had previously been a YMCA girls’ camp, and then a B&B. She had owned the property before Dr. Czeranko purchased it, and she now lived there despite no longer being the owner. I felt like I had wandered into one of the most amazing places I’d ever been. She told me that Dr. Czeranko had gone down to the lake for a swim, but to make myself comfortable, which I did. I sat there on the antique sofa dressed with beautiful quilts and felt like I had wandered into a place out of time. There was a bookshelf loaded with books on spirituality, meditation, healing, and the like, and this confirmed my sense that this place was good for the soul.
When Dr. Czeranko arrived, she greeted me warmly, showed me to my room (amazing, perfectly decorated Victorian-styled room, with its own ensuite bathroom), and then we talked. She explained to me that she had purchased this property because she had been smitten with the town after visiting and experiencing its amazing healing waters. Her plan is to eventually turn the old B&B into a healing retreat center where doctors and patients alike can come to learn about and experience the power of balneotherapy. The mineral-rich sea water and magical energy of the tiny town make Manitou Beach a perfect place to set up a healing retreat.
After learning all of this, my tiredness must have shown, for Dr. Czeranko directed me to the town’s salt lake to take a refreshing swim, and informed me that that evening we would be going to “Danceland.” Danceland, I was told, was all the rage. Everyone in town would be there, and I had no choice but to go. (As if I would turn down such an opportunity!) First, though, a swim to revive me.
Although now a small and quiet place with the tranquility of a ghost town, Manitou Beach was once a vibrant and bustling place. Earlier in the twentieth century, the train used to pass through town and bring visitors by the thousands who would fill Danceland to the gills, dancing and partying all night long before heading back to their respective homes in other towns. Guests would stay in the hotel at night, soak in the therapeutic waters by day, and dance and drink into the wee hours of the morning. Since the railroad has dwindled, the town has shrunk down to a mere 200 people, now left with the feeling of a town forgotten, or fallen out of time.
I took myself the few steps down to the beach and plunged into the water. I had never been swimming in a salt lake before, and I was delighted at how buoyant I was! I effortlessly bobbed along the surface of the refreshing lake and felt the life force filling me once again after the day’s journey. Once refreshed, I walked back to the house, was treated to a delicious meal (and wine) on the deck with a view of the lake, and then I dressed to go dancing at Danceland.
Once one of the hottest spots in the province, Danceland, it turns out, is this perfect little dance hall that still hosts dances and live music a few nights per week. Tuesday night is the Toonie dance from 8-9pm. The ladies and I walked along the water’s edge to Danceland and when we walked in, I discovered a large wooden dance floor (apparently built upon a bed of horse hair – for extra bounce) surrounded by chairs and tables. The floor was packed with dancers (where did all these people come from?), and on a stage at one end of the hall were two elderly ladies playing old-time hits on a keyboard and accordion. Disappointingly, none of the older gentlemen asked me to dance, but the ladies and I met some gals from Alberta, who were both very sweet, and Dr. Czeranko invited them to go swimming with us the following morning at 8am, for “hardening.”
Hardening is a nature cure practice in which you begin the day by taking a plunge into cold water with the aim of toughening the body’s defenses. The cold water forces the circulatory system to move, which boosts the immune system. Dr. Czeranko had already told me she would be waking me up early the next day to go “harden” in the lake. I was looking forward to it!
The next day and following evening were filled with swimming, soaking in the sun, eating wholesome and delicious meals (prepared by amazing chef Lydia,) and hours of wonderful and inspiring conversation with Dr. Czeranko and Lydia about all things naturopathic. Spending a few days with these ladies in this place was an amazing opportunity that I feel so blessed to have had. Lydia practices biofeedback (a diagnostic and treatment modality), and I was able to observe a biofeedback treatment session and then ask her lots of questions about it afterward. Dr. Czeranko shared her wisdom with me (hours on such topics as the future of the medicine and starting a practice) and provided me with a list of doctors to contact in the eastern part of Canada, all of whom she knows well. My time in Manitou didn’t give me any job shadowing opportunity per se. It gave me a whole lot more.
The day I left, I began my day with a swim in the salt lake (of course), an hour of raspberry picking, healthy breakfast, and a final Manitou chat with Dr. Czeranko, and when I left for Winnipeg, I felt like the wings of love that had carried me so far had now doubled in strength. As I drove away from that little gem of a town, I felt that I had just experienced a dose of the magic that exists in this world, and I was filled with a sense that no matter what, I was on my way to becoming the best doctor I could hope to be if for no other reason than I had some amazing people backing me.
Several towns, experiences, and a week later, I am now in Kingston, Ontario, which is the first place I have been to that strikes me as a town I could potentially call home. I have only been in this town for a few hours, but already I am in love with the town’s old-world charm, and I feel a sense of urgency that I have to move here before all the other doctors discover it and take over! More to say on this and so many other topics, but it’s time for bed, as I am heading out of town tomorrow morning to preceptor with yet another potentially amazing doctor. I can’t wait to see what’s in store for me around the next corner, and I will do my best to share the next segment of this adventure. Goodnight!
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